I have never shot with models before, but I know having the right lens is very important. Also, a motion control camera is always nice. Youll have to explane more of what you are planning to do with the models and what the problem is.

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Insane Ranger productions

I've never shot models either but from what I hear, shooting in slow motion also helps sell the illusion.

filmmaking.net

as a long time modeller, amongst other things, one of the important things to remember is that models reflect very little light - to have something appear the same colour green when it's 1/5th scale, or 1/30th, etc the green must be lighter than that used on the real object, thus you have to fake sunlight rather than film outdoors, etc - as the shadows from natural light will never look quite right. backgrounds are important too, as if you have trees in the distance, for example, thy must not look too large to be far away, or too out of focus to be close by - location is everything - of course an easier way would be to light and film/photograph the model in a studio where you can control the conditions, using a green/blue background, then key out the back drop and digitally add one in post... just a thought. Most model magazines, etc, will use scale scenery and a photograph of the horizon/sky behind it, rather than use natural conditions as they never look right.

I'm pulling this from a book. The proper camera speed when photographing a miniature:
?code?
_________
fps = 24 x V D / d
?/code?
where D = dimensions in feet of real object
and d = dimensions in feet of the miniature

in case my ascii art didn't come out well, the formula is 24 times the square root of D divided by d.

Nate

That doesn't make much sens becuz, lets say ure real object is a person mesuring 6 feet, and ure miniature mesures 0.5 feet. then:

D/d=6/0.5=12
____
v 12 =3.47

and finally 3.47x24 is 83.28

I don't see how shooting at 83 fps makes sens...

Life is the art of making movies without editing

It would make much more sens if:
d = dimensions in feet of real object
D = dimensions in feet of the miniature

Life is the art of making movies without editing

No. Not at all. When shooting miniatures you need to shoot "slow mo" just like Mr. Filmmaking.net said up above. To sell the effect the camera needs to be overcranked, hence your 83fps, so that when projected at the normal 24fps it is slowed down. You need the slowed down effect to create the illusion that these small objects are in fact life size. The smaller the scale the more you need to speed up the camera. It's just a fact; it's how it's done; it's a proven method.

If you switched D and d around like you suggested, you would end up shooting at 7fps which would look rediculous when projected at 24fps.

Nate

I got interested in this so, here is some advice from Dennis Muren. There are a few chapters in the ASC Manual 8th edition that you should look at. It is your bible, it has all the answers.

1) Use a wide angle lens from a low view point.
2) Use a small f-stop to keep a great depth of field
3) Diffision and smoke can be used as atmosphere
4) Use high speed film so that you can stop down for DOF

Whatever you do make sure it matches your live action shots.

I guess that if you are using stop motion or motion control you don't really need to worry about the formula posted before; the formula is basically used if there are explosions, fire, water, earthquakes, etc...

Nate